Inside renovated Notre Dame de Paris

It was the 16th of April and I had tears streaming down my face as I watched live coverage of the conflagration consuming the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris. In Paris, 12 hours behind, it was the 15th of April. The horrified gasp as onlookers lined along the Seine saw the spire with its gilded brass rooster collapse into the transcript. President Macron swore to local residents, citizens of France, tourists and the world watching that the cathedral would be restored, in just five years. And it was!

On my recent trip to France in blazing 37 degree heat I was determined to get to Paris to see the restored cathedral. I'm an atheist but I can appreciate such a monument to the skill and labour of thousands of artisans who, over the many centuries, built this amazing cathedral. I recognise it has played a part in so many historical moments.

 The construction of the cathedral began in 1163 under Bishop Maurice de Sully and was largely completed by 1260 so it is close to 900 years old. It's a magnificent collaboration of stone masons, carpenters and metalworkers, artists having done such a massive job together over so many years, and the financial contributions of ordinary people. 

Notre Dame is a prime example of French Gothic architecture, known for its soaring height, stained glass windows, and intricate detail. It contains relics such as the (supposed) crown of thorns and a splinter from Christ's cross. Hmm.

By the time Victor Hugo published his novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame in 1831 the cathedral was starting to crumble  and no-one seemed to care but V. Hugo did. His book was such a success it brought international attention to the cathedral and highlighted its architectural beauty. Parisians started to appreciate the old monument and funds were raised to restore it, between 1844 and 1864, supervised by Eugene Viollet-le-Duc who is famous for designing the metal spire.

The last time I was inside this cathedral I couldn't help but notice how dark and grimy it was after centuries of soot and pollution had attached themselves to everything. Entering the monument now was so very different; so light, so sparkling and so colourful, as it would have been originally and which no other generations will have seen. The folks who have worked to restore the building have done an incredible job. Led initially by a retired general, old and traditional ways of doing things,  and even an ancient oak stand (2,400 trees) cut down to restore the 'forest' inside the roof have all contributed to a very authentic restoration.

250 different companies and 2000 workers worked and collaborated in sequence over the span of the project because everyone was happy and proud to be contributing. 

The day I visited there was a gregorian mass in progress which did limit how we could move about. However, with a bit of patience you could stay as long as you liked and see most things up front. 

Of special note are the restored wooden sculptured freizes; they are gleaming with gilt and all telling part of a much larger story, the new chandeliers certainly caught my eye; the bronze absolutely sparkles, and what was particularly interesting were the side chapels with the painted columns and freshly cleaned stained glass. There were statues and artworks galore. The famous rose windows have survived, with careful cleaning and repair.

 

 A few amazing renovation statistics to share:

2000 statues and decorative features were restored or re-created, 43,000 square feet of lead was shaped to cover the roof, all stained glass taken out, cleaned and restored. There are 1,500 new seats of solid oak. There's a programmable array of 1,550 LED spotlights that can vary in intensity and colour accordin to the event. The great organ survived the fire but had to be completely dismantled and cleaned and each of  the 8000 pipes had to recalibrated, one by one.

The only section I didn't like was the garish stuff in the open souvenir shop, not even off to the side but right there in the middle near one end. Ghastly products, trinkets for the most part, in a circular desk design so once you entered it was hard to get out. I didn't bother and I think Jesus might not have been happy with tacky commerce in the middle of the cathedral. Oh well!

One thing I hadn't paid much attention to in the past was the massive door(s) which were opened flat so I could marvel at the beautifully intricate carving on them. And that's all worth noting because everywhere you look you can see surprising details, so much painting, sculpture and ironwork.

Through the centuries there have been a number of historic happenings at the cathedral, Here are some...

1239: Relics

Louis IV delivered what is perported to be the crown of thorns to the cathedral 

1431: Coronation of Henry VI:

Henry VI of England was crowned King of France here, a significant event during the Hundred Years War. 

 

1558 & 1572:

Several royal weddings took place at Notre Dame, including those of Mary, Queen of Scots to the Dauphin Francis, and Henry of Navarre to Margaret of Valois

 

1789: Revolution

The cathedral became state property during the French Revolution and was later transformed into a Temple of Reason. A lot of its bronze and iron was melted down.

 

1804: Napoleon's Coronation:

Napoleon Bonaparte crowned himself Emperor of France within Notre Dame, a symbolic act that demonstrated his power and authority. The pope was present.

 

1853: 

Eugénie de Montijo and Emperor Napoleon III were married there. 

 

1871 – In final days of the Paris Commune revolution the Communards prepared to burn the cathedral, but abandoned their plan since it would end up burning the crowded neighboring hospital for the elderly. They went on to burn down the Tuileries Palace.

 

1944:

The bells of Notre Dame rang out to celebrate the liberation of Paris from the Nazis near the end of World War II.

 

New precautions have been taken to protect Notre Dame from future fires. There are detecting systems and misting valves. Suction systems analyse the air and detect smoke and thermal cameras detect changes in temperature. Modernity has required advanced water, heating, electrical and communications systems be installed, discretely.

 

Accessing the cathedral is easier than I expected. One is supposed to book a slot online but I could never get through so I just turned up and hoped for the best. The zigzagging queues moved along quite well in the heat of the morning.

 

As I emerged from my visit I noticed public toilets (a rarity in
Paris) just next to the square in front of Notre Dame so I made use of that for 2 euros. There's a woman on duty making sure things stay clean and tidy for toilet cusotmers. I did NOT see trinket-sellers, that was good and everyone was well-behaved.

 

The metro station to get out for the cathedral is Cite. 

 

 

 

Look at all those lovely colours in the chapels. I did notice that only eight months after reopening there is wear and tear visible on some of the painted columns accessible to the public. Those protected by grills are fine. There is still a lot of work to be done on the exterior of the cathedral, including the gardens. These works are expected to be completed some time in 2027.  

 

Do check out the video links below; they are well worth watching. 

Tour through the new cathedral https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N-e7PUIrxE

Explanations  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8p2hKnu-C0

Sources:

National Geographic 12.24 vol 246. pp 90-111

Attribution of fire photo By GodefroyParis - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=78090147  

 

 

 

 

 

NZ's Liberation of Le Quesnoy, France

Some New Zealanders know about the liberation of the village of Le Quesnoy in the North of France, but most don't, and this is a real shame. Any time I had the opportunity to teach classes in France about this I went for it.

So let's dive in and see what this wonderful story is all about...

It's the 4th of November 1918 and the residents of Le Quesnoy have been suffering under German occupation for four years. The New Zealand troops are determined to capture the town.

It's an old fortress town occupying a strategic position in northeastern France.  Settlement dates back to the 12th century and its fortifications to 1536, constructed to defend what was then the Spanish Netherlands.

 After the region is captured by France in 1654 under King Louis XIV, he orders his famous military engineer Vauban to build a series of forts to protect the new north-east borders. One of these results in the town's ramparts.

After four years of occupation during WW1 there are still around 1,600 civilians in the town out of a previous population of 3000.

 Instead of bombarding the town ramparts which are protecting the Germans from assault, the NZers decide to risk their lives in order to preserve the lives of the villagers and also their homes. This would mean scaling the ramparts to get at the Germans. However, this would be very dangerous as the only way to do this would be by ladders which are too short to get to the top, leaving the kiwis sitting ducks on those ladders, where they are held back by machine-gun fire. 

Many kiwis died trying but eventually the only access is discovered;  the riflemen could position a ladder on a single, narrow ledge. It is a medieval-like assault only achievable with persistent courage.

 Led by Lieutenant Leslie Averill, the battalion's intelligence officer, this small group of men quickly climbs up the wall. After exchanging shots with fleeing Germans, the New Zealander riflemen enter Le Quesnoy and the German garrison soon surrenders. 711 Germans surrendered in Le Quesnoy.

 This was the last major action by NZers in the Great War, just a week before the armistice on 11 November. About 80 soldiers from the NZ Rifle Brigade died in the assault. 

 At Le Quesnoy, in the park, a monument commemorating the town's liberation by the New Zealand Division is set into the rampart walls, near where Averill scaled them.

Le Quesnoy is twinned with Cambridge in the North Island and St. Andrew's Church there has a memorial window depicting New Zealand soldiers scaling Le Quesnoy's ramparts. 

The town really appreciates its liberation even to this day and school children learn the haka and the story, streets have Kiwi names. ANZAC day is observed every year. 

In 2023 the New Zealand Liberation Museum-Te Arawhata was opened in Le Quesnoy to commemorate and share the stories of New Zealand's role in the liberation of Le Quesnoy and New Zealand's wider involvement in the First World War. It contains an excellent portrayal of issues the Kiwis faced in their assault and the ongoing links with NZ to this day. However, I did notice a glaring omission in their chronology of contacts between the two countries; that of the visit of General Paul to Akaroa in 1919, to say thank you to NZers for their help during the war. He then went on to visit Australia. The museum was unaware of this but I doubt this important connection will be added to their displays. 

 Weta Workshop were involved in part of the displays with an over-sized Kiwi soldier, much like what is in the Gallipoli display at Te Papa, Wellington. I'd like to have seen more of those.

 Visits to the museum cost 15 euros, or 12 euros for a senior.  

 It takes 8 hours to scroll through all the names of kiwis killed in the first World War.

The museum closes Mondays and Tuesdays. Check summer and winter hours. 

https://nzliberationmuseum.com/        03 74 58 01 85

18 Rue Achille Carlier, 59530 Le Quesnoy, France. 

Please check out the following links for more technical, military and human details relating to the town liberation. 

https://nzhistory.govt.nz/war/le-quesnoy/new-zealand-and-le-quesnoy 

 https://www.mfat.govt.nz/en/countries-and-regions/europe/france/new-zealand-embassy/anzac-day-commemorations/le-quesnoy 

There is a lovely children's book that tells this story. It's available online, at the museum at Le Quesnoy (English and French versions) or from the Wigram Air base Museum in Christchurch, NZ. I have a copy of it and can thoroughly recommend it.

Scarecrow world capital

 What an oddity! There is a scarecrow capital of the world and I'm living in it.

  Béville-le-Comte is a small village in the middle of La Beauce, a wheat-growing region of France located around the cathedral city of Chartres. This area is mostly flat for growing cereals, and stretches for many kilometres. So as soon as I was told this was the capital of the world for scarecrows I immediately looked at the fields expecting to see some. There were none. Not a one. Not even the black kites shaped liked crow that move in the wind. How disappointing! Even the village website does not explain how they could designate themselves as the scarecrow capital if I couldn't see them.  

But wait... There are metallic sculptures in parts of the village but what they could possibly scare away beats me. In 1990 the village decided it was the world capital for scarecrows. I have no idea why. 

In 2007 the scarecrow competition was held and the entries placed in the Parc du Jeu de Paume and at the entrances to the village. Competition entries still remain. I can find no explanation. This village barely registers on the internet. Some of the scarecrows are starting to look the worse for wear. These are not your traditional scarerows. 

The village has had a few name changes over the past 1000 years but has been known as Béville-le-Comte since 1795 after name changes during the Revolution. The village church dates partly from the 12th century but the other part is from the 15th century following a fire. The roof of the bell tower was renewed in 2019.

   

The town hall was constructed in 1889 to celebrate one hundred years after the Revolution (though let's keep in mind there have been several revolutions since 1789).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driving to and from this village has been a hairy experience because the roads are sometimes only wide enough for one vehicle. If vehicles need to pass they are both obliged to drive in their respective ditches and some drivers like to play 'chicken' to see who will move to the ditch first. Well, I'm not arguing with them, they win!

The other problem with these windy, narrow roads is that the crops grow so high that you can't see past all the bends. Wheat and sunflowers can grow really high, the speed limit is 80kms/hr and the locals like to exceed it. Timid little me is terrified I will meet a car racing towards me and I could flip in the ditch. Nerves of steel needed here. Maybe that's why most of the scarecrows here are steel. 

 

Let's take a look at a few more of them... I think I have all the exits covered, so to speak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Beville le Comte, as I said, is in one of the main cereal-producing areas of France. It has been a very hot summer so far and the harvesters are out harvesting crops and the subsequent hay. It's dry and dusty work here where all you can see are brown fields and wind turbines. The harvesters have to be careful as just one spark from their machines can start a serious fire in such dry and dusty conditions. 

Scraps of straw are accumulating around the sliding doors and blow in whenever one of the cats wants to come in the house. Yet, despite it's lack of exciting scenery, I still enjoy driving through the country roads, reliving parts of my past life in this area and imagining that, perhaps, I might, in the near future, be calling this region home, again.

 

 

 

 

No bats in the Belfry in Bruges

I first heard about Bruges when I watched the 2008 film In Bruges, starring Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson. Set in the city it is not a happy tale - betrayal and violence - but the architecture fascinated me.

Bruges, the capital of West Flanders in northwest Belgium, is distinguished by its canals, cobbled streets and medieval buildings. Its port, Zeebrugge, is an important center for fishing and European trade. 

A short history 

In the Bruges area, the first fortifications were built after Julius Caesar's conquest in the first century BC, to protect the coastal area against pirates. The Franks took over the whole region from the Gallo-Romans around the fourth century. The Viking incursions of the ninth century prompted reinforcement of the Roman fortifications.

Bruges had a strategic location at the crossroads of the northern trade. Bruges was already included in the circuit of the Flemish and French cloth fairs at the beginning of the 13th century.

With the reawakening of town life in the 12th century, a wool market, a weaving industry, and the cloth market all profited from the shelter of city walls. The Bourse opened in 1309, most likely the first ever stock exchange. Such wealth gave rise to social upheavals, which were, for the most part, harshly contained by the militia. 

The first book in English ever printed was published in Bruges by William Caxton, while Edward IV and Richard III of England were then living their exiles in the city. 

During the 17th century, the lace industry took off, and various efforts to bring back the glorious past were made. During the 1650s, the city was the base for Charles II of England (his father Charles I was beheaded) and his court in exile. The maritime infrastructure was modernised, and new connections with the sea were built, but without much success, as Antwerp became increasingly dominant. Bruges became impoverished and gradually faded in importance.

In World War I German forces occupied Bruges. However, the city suffered virtually no damage, and was liberated on 19 October 1918 by the Allies. The city was occupied by the Germans from 1940 during World War II and was again spared destruction. 

After 1965, the original medieval city experienced a "renaissance". Restorations of residential and commercial structures, historic monuments, and churches generated a surge in tourism and economic activity in the downtown area. International tourism attracts some eight million tourists annually.

The port of Zeebrugge was built in 1907. The Germans used the port of Zeebrugge for their U-boats in World War I. It was greatly expanded in the 1970s and early 1980s and has become one of Europe's most important and modern ports. 

The medieval architecture in Bruges is mostly intact, making it one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. The "Historic Centre of Bruges" has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 2000.The heart of the city seems to be Markt Square (spelling is correct). I would have loved to have taken a carriage ride around the city or a canl trip but they were beyond my resources.

The town hall is impressive and so is the Belfry. Bruges' best-known landmark is the 13th-century Belfry of Bruges which houses a municipal carillon comprising 47 bells. 

Last time I will do that! 

I must have been feeling rebellious against my aging body as I agreed to climb up the entire belfry. It is so narrow
and so steep I felt vertigo at times and it was pretty challenging to allow people to come down while we were trying to climb up and down the 366 steps. I overheard one young tourist say " I wouldn't want to do this aged 75". I chipped in and said, "well I'm 70". The reply was "you are very impressive then". 

 We stopped to watch the carillon operating just after the hour. Musical compositions are still created for it. It's very intricate and the mecanisms of metal pull wires attached to all those bells which play in a proscribed order.  Along the scarey climb you can see some exhibits on the lower sections - gates, trunks. 

Bruges is known for its lace, a textile technique using bobbins and embroidery.

 My great, great grandmother made lace with bobbins in Akaroa so I was pleased to see many examples of the differing techniques on display in a lace shop. You can see some examples in the photo. One wall was devoted to 19th century lace - the real thing. It was too expensive for me to purchase, but I loved learning and exploring within the shop. 

Most of the lace is
produced in more rural areas of Belgium and sent to Bruges to be sold.

Bus links to the centre are frequent, though the railway station is just a 10-minute walk from the main shopping streets and a 20-minute walk from Markt Square.

Free public transport is available for those who park their cars in the main railway station car park.

The city is not car free but there are cyclists everywhere and it all seems so natural there. There are acoutrements for all lifestyles; you can add special paniers on the side or in front of your bike to transport groceries or babies or tools of your trade - such a variety. It must be bone-jarring on the cobble-stone sections though. 

Watch out when walking the streets. The cyclists are silent and very fast. You won't hear them coming. Many cyclists do not wear helmets. The husband of our B&B host fell off his bike and is now in a coma in hospital. I don't know why helmet-wearing is not compulsory but at least half the cyclists don't bother to wear them.

And what about the Belgian chocolate?

Err, um. Since I am (hopefully not permanently) prediabetic, chockkies were not really possible. How cruel! I did talk to one shop assistant who said she did have a few loose sugar-free chocolates so I bought 5 of them, ate 3 and gave the rest to my friends. Big purchase, eh?

There are chocolates and lollies everywhere and if you are into fresh waffles? I can't be, but you'll have no difficulty finding plain or stacked ones. 

 

 St Salvator's Cathedral

There's no getting away from churches and cathedrals while visiting european cities. This is another one. There were originally churches on this site but they evolved into what is a 101m long cathedral offically recognised as such in the nineteeth century. 

There are several organs in differing styles from the heavy wooden ones to the bright stainless steel one. It's all quite baroque inside the cathedral.

 This cathedral is unusual in the fact that it has wall hangings/tapestries hanging up along the nave. I enjoy this sort of textile.

It is handy to have more than one language here. There's Flemish and French and Dutch. Luckily I speak French and English and many folks here speak a bit of both.

 Bruges is most definitely worth a visit. Maybe a day and 2 nights is enough. Tack on a trip to Ghent and Brussels to complete the trio. The worst part of the driving was trying to nagivate past Paris - what a traffic jam horror. Pretty impossible to avoid it so take toll roads to get past it f you can. Once out of that you can take smaller roads for the scenic trip rather than motorways, your choice.