Saturday 9 December 2023

TransAlpine goes West

An opportunity to take a train journey which I could not afford for myself presented itself. I snatched it as I love the comfort of train travel (so long as it's not standing-room-only at commuter time).

The TranzAlpine scenic tourist rain runs from Christchurch to Greymouth, or Greymouth to Christchurch as a one-way trip. It is quite expensive at NZ$239 + but the trip covers 223 kilometres (139 miles) one-way and takes just under 5 hours, providing a very relaxing and interesting experience. 

The open-air viewing carriage allows keen photographers to take photos without the glare of windows but be warned, it is feverishly windy, hang on tight and initially you'll be scrabbling for a viewing spot before other passengers get blase and disappear back to more comfortable carriages.

The weather wasn't warm so I didn't avail myself of a chance to step out at a brief stop and it was a shame there was almost no snow. It must be a marvellous scene in early Spring travelling through the Great Divide and its majestic peaks. You'll see a variety of landscapes and land-use along the way.

Passengers are supplied with headphones to listen to an informative commentary as they roll along. I learned a few things about the history of the Canterbury Plains which are the most changed natural environment in NZ. It was bad enough with the sheep and wheat in the past but now it's all irrigation pivots and intensive dairy farming which I find distressing. The amount of potable artesian water being vomitted onto fields was shocking.

I got on the train at the Rolleston station but most passengers would get on at Christchurch. There are stewards to assist.




The refreshments car has very nice leather armchairs - a very civilised way to travel across the Southern Alps. Hot drinks and snacks can be purchased and service is good.

Along the way there are short stops at Springfield and Arthur's Pass. You'll travel past Otira, entering the 8km long tunnel, pass by Lake Brunner before arriving at Greymouth on the West Coast, where the train slows to cross mid-town traffic as it pulls into the station. 

The only down-side to the train trip was having 5 louty adolscent males in the same carriage constantly making a noise and showing no interest at all in the views outside. They obviously weren't paying for themselves and they spoiled the experience for those of us forced to share a carriage with them. 

Once you arrive at Greymouth you collect your luggage from the train and can then organise West Coast site-seeing and a rental car should you choose. The Speights Ale House provided a quality lunch though their dinner was less satisfying. After doing a spot of tourism we made our way to Hanmer Springs for a soak in the pools and an overnight stay before driving the rental to Christchurch via the Waipara vineyards - a short tasting at Greystones.