The Gorges du Tarn - quirky

One way to head down to the South of France from the more North of France areas is to go the scenic route though the Gorges du Tarn. There are breath-taking cliffs with precariously perched houses, calm waters are ideal for discovering the joys of family canoeing, while the bubbling rapids are the source of a large number of activities: rafting, canyoning, kayaking,  to satisfy the adventurous. If you are more a heritage and culture lover like me you won’t be disappointed by the historic remains, châteaux, fortresses and churches which line the gorge.

Before we arrived there, we stopped off at the Garabit Viaduct (Viaduc de Garabit) which is a railway bridge spanning the Truvere River in the montainous and central Massif Central region. This outstanding bridge was constructed between 1882 and 1884 by Gustave Eiffel (yes, he of the Eiffel Tower fame). It was opened in 1885, and is 565 m (1,854 ft) in length and has a principal arch of 165 m (541 ft) span. It's worth a photo stop if travelling through the area.


The northern end of the classic "Gorges du Tarn" route is at the small town  of Sainte Enimie, from where it is either possible to continue up the Tarn valley as far as Florac, or turn north towards Mende, or south to the Causses and on down to the Mediterranean coast. We started at Florac. Our accommodation there was pretty awful but things improved as the trip progressed.

Canoes and kayaks can be hired at numerous points in the Tarn Gorge, especially at Sainte Enimie, La Malène, les Vignes and le Rozier. At la Malène, there are also boat trips on the Tarn river for groups of up to 8 people.

The town is very quaint. Some of it is on the flat but be prepared to walk on steep cobbles if you want to explore such small towns along the Tarn to discover their very real charm.

Cirque du Navacelles  is a geological oddity. A river eroded the bottom and left an oxbow lake which later dried up, leaving silt deposits and thus the only arable land for miles around.  It is set within a great canyon. There's a bit of a tourist centre above it.

Descend to the Cirque at your own risk. I found it really freaky and clutched the sides of the car seat the entire time we drove down and back up. This road leaves little room for error but most of the time Jean-Claude wasn't phased. Meeting a car coming the other way was, however, something that had him appreciating his own mortality.

 Roads in the area are very poorly maintained and are only wide enough for one vehicle. In order to pass the landform, a dangerous, but exhilarating, road which weaves down into the valley and clings to the sheer cliff face on the way back up must be braved.

This road is one of the most famous balcony roads in the country. A balcony road is a hair-raising lane cut into the sides of sheer cliffs. It’s a unique site in France, forming a natural amphitheatre with its tall limestone cliffs. There are residences at the bottom but they are in poor repair. The hair-raising trip down and up is NOT worth the trouble. Best viewed from way above.

So, take time to explore the central part of France on your way down to Millau or further South.