The art of Passementerie

I'd like to introduce you to a little-known industry where artisanship, creativity and beautiful materials combine to enliven historic buildings and homes or contemporary appartments, museums and fashion. 

Passementerie consists of ribbons, bobbins, tassels, fringing and braids. It's an old industry that survives to this day in Europe. I first started to appreciate it while visiting chateaux in France and Royal residences in England.  

Any passementiers in the 1600s were French Protestant Huguenots who, on being forced to flee France due to religious persecution, took their skills and tools with them, thus transforming the skill base available in London. 

Today, there are at least three major businesses in Paris still manufacturing these exquisite 3D objects and trims and other businesses in other locations. Multiple contemporary uses and the renovation of historic buildings means there is a demand for these products. Much of the work is done by hand, as well as using looms and other mechanical devices.

I discovered an order book of passementerie in Millers Home Centre, Christchurch, while I was in the throes of designing the interiors of my new home under construction in 2018. Curtain tiebacks (embrasses) were priced at around $120 each. Hmm, I hesitated. Yes it is pricey but they had to be ordered from Paris and the workmanship and detailing was outstanding. I waited a couple of months while considering various decor options.  

I went back to Millers but couldn't find the book. I was informed they would no longer order in as volumes were too low. I had left my decision to proceed too late. Instead, I had to make do with the cheap and nasty stuff available from Millers. Mass-produced in Asia at $15 each, and they look it. Sigh! I had the same problem trying to find trim for reupholstering two antique French armchairs. No retailer had anything suitable. My upholsterer had a very limited choice but we did manage to choose a trim that could match the fabric.

While in France I would come across situations where passementerie had been essential decoration in the past: fringing and tassels for royal carriages and hearses, decorations for horse bridles and carts, curtain decoration, lampshades, bed and cushion decoration, upholstery, fashion accessories, jewelery. The Victorians loved tassels and bobbles and these items were widely used in NZ up until around 1916 when they fell out of favour and were associated with 'stuffy old things'. There is currently a resurgence as fashion houses use more and more of these exquisite decorations to distinuish their designs.

Their manufacture is interesting and I include the link to videos you can watch. No wonder the 'real macoy' is expensive but worth it.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxLLByW8O_Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CXb7GPKHjQ 

And this guy was voted best artisan 2011- lovely work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDVtWtN8oSk

First up is research for the different materials needed for each order. The threads are grouped by width and quality, in appropriate color tones and according to use. If the dyed material cannot be found in existing stock, the raw materials are dyed. After dyeing, they are spooled.

The next step is preparation of the threads on the loom. If the item is composed of decorative ornaments, these are prepared with le retordeur, the mechanism for twisting threads.

Some materials are destined for the mechanical loom: first carefully threaded onto the loom as the pattern requires. The mechanical loom enables the creation of ribbons, braids and bullion fringes.

Still other materials are destined for the work-table, where items are assembled by hand without the use of looms: for example tassels, complex gimps.

The last step is the production itself: weaving on a Jacquard mechanic loom, hand weaving or at the handwork table. 

You can buy quality work online and see examples on eBay and Amazon. There are heaps of photos on Pintarest. You can also teach yourself to make simple tassels via YouTube. You'll be learning a whole new vocabulary too.

The photos are those I have taken to show you some ways passementerie is used. They include from sites such as Versailles and Fontainebleau. Queen Elizabeth wouldn't let us take photos inside Windsor Castle to show off English versions.