Travelling theatre - lost in the past

We all know about travelling circuses, with or without animals, but I hadn't really thought about travelling theatre, other than what used to occur during Shakespeare's time. Travelling (kitset) theatres were popular in the nineteenth century and the last didn't close in France until the late 1960s. Before TV, internet, even radio, it would have been quite an event to have the travelling theatre arrive in your town or village and set up their outdoor structure within 24 hours, complete with stage, wings, seating, ticketing. Here you can see a model of one of the last ones to close in France.


The repertoires were classic and huge. Actors had to learn a hundred plays. Sets had to be very portable. Seating for the audience had to be staggered in height. It was a very physical life and every member of the troupe pitched in. Age was no excuse.

I visited a museum about this travelling lifestyle which is located at Artenay, in the Loiret. It's small but contains many puppets, marionettes, costumes and parts of sets. There's also a little shop where I bought two finger puppets as a memento.

One of the last things I viewed was an example of a typical actor's trailer. Here you can see the exterior and interior setup. The inside has as many facilities and luxuries as you could squeeze in. Cooking can't have been easy as most of the space was taken up with the bedroom and storage. I can't imagine myself spending my life in such confinement but I suppose it's what you get used to.


Ours was a guided visit and definitely the best way to learn. The museum caters particularly for children with regular workshop activities and shows. You can explore their website at  http://musee-theatre-forain.fr/index.htm

 

Chateau de Chamerolles - Perfume Museum

On a cold and gloomy Saturday we piled into a bus and travelled south to the Chateau de Chamerolles. These days it's a perfume museum but it has had a chequered history.

It was built at the dawn of the Renaissance period by Lancelot I du Lac (yes, Lancelot of the Lake) who served under Francois I king of France (while Henry VIII was king of England). It stayed in the du Lac family until the end of the 17th century. The family were Protestants but managed to hide the fact when necessary and also their protestant artifacts. By 1987 the city of Paris ceded the chateau to the Loiret département. After five years of intense renovation the chateau opened to the public in 1992.

The guided tour is interesting for its information on the daily lives of notables during the 16th - 19th centuries. I hadn't realised that at one time it was normal for everyone to bath every day until it was outlawed by the church and the medical fraternity.

During the 16th century wooden baths were used and rooms were perfumed with aromatic plants hanging from the beams. Sheets were often put in the barrels to protect the skin from wooden splinters and/or shirts were worn for the same reason.

In the 17th century there developed a strong taste for perfumes with an almost overpowering scent. We sniffed civet, undiluted. No one wanted to keep their paper samples; it was so strong and unpleasant but in those days strong scents were needed to mask the bad odours emitted by dubious hygiene. Braziers burnt rosemary or juniper berries to clear the foul air.

Doctors had judged that washing was dangerous as it opened the pores so that illness could enter the body. Both Catholic and Protestant preachers denounced the pleasures of the bath so the 'dry' bath, consisting of rubbing parts of the body likely to be visible (very little of that in those days) with squares of linen soaked inperfume mixtures, was used. This of course only applied to the wealthy.
 

The bath returned in the 18th century and perfume  gained a more social role. Subtlety was introduced. A copper bath was used and the bath was covered in a sheet to protect the skin from the hot metal and to filter the bath water, which was often used by many people, even as a social activity rather than private. These baths were often modular and one could read and write and eat while having a bath, which might take more than two hours. It was a sign of prestige and luxury.

The perfume area was less interesting for me having already visited the Fragonard Museum in Grasse, twice. The Chamerolles perfume museum has a display of bottles and items that were routinely perfumed in former centuries, such as book covers, gloves and bags. The industrial or artisanal processes were not mentioned or explained. The display concentrates more on the design and marketing of perfume though you can see a perfume organ from the 19th century with its old bottles arranged in rows or 'notes'.

One item that was intriguing was the perfume  fountain (see left) often to be found in well-to-do stores in Paris which dispensed drops of perfume (probably eau de toilette) for shoppers to sample. Certainly the beginning of modern marketing with more elegance than we see today.

The display includes many cabinets of posh perfume bottles as well as a reconstruction of two shop windows of the time (from the Lancel shop on the Avenue de l'Opera). The atomiser was created in the 19th century (1859) for medical uses, then used in horticulture and agriculture, before being adapted by perfumers around 1870.

The 20th century section features Coty and a large collection of design drawings of bottles and labels. It's not that well lit so I had trouble reading anything. We were warned we might get attacked by fleas (very disconcerting) as the pest destructors couldn't always erradicate every one from the old timbers, but we weren't bothered at all and no one suffered any 'attack'.

There's a renaissance garden which must be splendid in summer. Unfortunately the weather was too cold to spend time outside wandering about. If you would like more information in English visit their website. They are well set up for tourists with ample parking, toilets and a well organised shop .
Castle of Chamerolles
45170 Chilleurs-aux-Bois, France

http://www.chateauchamerolles.fr/en

How to become French - Part 2. Naturalisation interview

On a fresh but sunny Thursday JC drove me the two hours to Tours for a date with destiny (one way or the other).

I had an interview, at the prefecture, for naturalisation to become a citizen of France (and Europe).
I'd been preparing for this for weeks and was feeling very stressed. Days and nights had been spent swotting the Livret du Citroyen contents. JC had tested me on possible questions but I couldn't seem to make the dates and foreign names stick in my head. I knew much more than what was in the book but it wasn't me in charge of the questions and, in fact, any random question could be asked.

I'd trawled the internet forums for what I might expect. Some said it was pretty easy and the interview lasted only 10 minutes (really?). Others were served balls from left field by being asked to write letters in French or list a lot of ex-colonies, sporting heros, singers etc. In this case you can never really be prepared.

Still, I could prove my love and participation in France and things French. I took along a copy of my book, Follow my Heart: Risking it all for a life in France. I also brought along a book on French history, in French and with a message from a friend saying it was a present in recognition of my love of France. The rest of my very heavy bag was full of books I've created over 5 years showing French culture, history, my family ties to France, and 4 books relating to my relationship with JC. The latter were never used in the interview. And I knew how I felt about things. I also switched on my Toastmasters training and Communications training because this so-important interview was in French and my competence was being yet again assessed, in a live situation rather than a 'test'.

I didn't sleep well the night before. My nerves were at such a pitch that when I arrived at Tours and got out of the car I discovered I was wearing two different pairs of boots. One for each foot. Quelle horreur! No wonder I was walking with a funny gait. One boot had a heel higher than the other. At least the boots were on the correct feet and were both black. Mortified, there was nothing I could do about it.

Official documents I had to bring included:

1. The latest list from the trésorie of my tax payments (the previous one with my demand for naturalisation was now no longer current)
2. My current carte de Sejour
3. My interview confirmation
4. My work contract
5. The last three payslips from my job.

The lady was pleasant and meticulous. There was to be no informal 10 minute chat with me. She took the entire hour covering many different areas of my life and activities. Some questions were unexpected, such as what period of history did I consider most important and why did it interest me? I plumped for the Renaissance and a little earlier. This being Tours, the chateaux of the Loire were mostly built during the Renaissance. She asked me to name them and talk about them. Sure I know heaps but under pressure, in French, one wonders just what one can say in a short time to convince someone I know stuff. Luckily I keep myself up to date on many things, such as the fact that much of Azay-le-Rideau is under scaffolding right now due to important renovations and that the hunting dogs of Cheverny are a special feature of a visit there.... And in fact there's a nice chateau near me called the Chateau de Maintenon (owned by Louis XIV's second wife) which I have visited many times.

She asked me what level of French I had arrived with. I told her I'd studied it in High School such  a long time ago so although I understood the grammar I was very weak in anything oral, but one must make an effort to improve because the language and the culture are entwined. You cannot have one without the other.

She spent some time looking at my two passports, the current one and especially the cancelled one. In France you don't get to keep your old passport. I brought the cancelled one along because it has my visa in it and also the sticker from the immigration department.
Of course, the predictable question of why I wanted to become French arrived. It's not that easy to explain the intangible but I did my best and showed her how I tried to live my dream. I also explained that I was currently very limited by what sort of work I was allowed do on my visa. I'd like more options to use more of my talents. I'd made a commitment to France - I'd like France to make one to me. She asked if I had already decided to ask for naturalisation when I arrived in France. I replied no. To begin it was simply to realise my dream and have an adventure but that quite soon it became essential for me ; mind, body, soul to become French, officially, because in my heart and soul I already felt French, well, look at my name and my ancesters. My middle name Suzette is totally French.

Explain the rights and responsibilities of a French citizen. I barely got started on that.
Discuss the concept of égalité. I thought that might be a good moment to mention that NZ was the first country to give women the right to vote. She asked me how I'd feel about having a female president. I said I wouldn't comment on Marine le Pen but females in such roles seemed completely normal to me. Life in NZ is democratic.

I had an active associative life? I explained I was a member and the translator for the Association d'Epernon Patrimone et Alentours. Being a member of community associations or groups is key in an interview such as this. I had also attended several meetings of the Business Women's Network at Chartres, including the recent visit by the international president.

I must have a lot of friends? Not a lot but the ones I have are all my age, except for the lady who had signed the present to me. I explained my job is very solitary and I wished I had more colleague contact.

And then one of the critical interview questions... How many times had I been back to NZ?
Never! She seemed taken-a-back. Never? Not ever, I said. I've brought my daughter here to see France a couple of times but she has her own life in Auckland and is getting married, and my mother has dementia so any conversation with her is difficult.

I didn't mention a planned trip had been cancelled. I didn't mention I had no money for regular trips, and anyway I don't miss NZ as much as I appreciate it; just some people and the ease of language.

It seemed to her, she said, that it was a bit pointless asking me much about history or culture. I was asked very little that was in the book. I was all ready to tell her how many communes, how many départements, quote endless authors, poets, musicians, scientists - I wasn't asked. When she'd say there was no point asking me a certain thing  (because it seemed I was pretty boned-up on that) I just gave the 'gallic shrug' and gave her some info anyway. I did explain laicité to her and that I was not religious.

The conversation felt very stilted because there was a time limit and I had no idea how many questions she would ask. I could have said more on each subject but I didn't want to sabotage myself by making a mistake. She made notes in thick red ink in the margins of her document. Unlike some accounts on the online forums, she gave me no indication at all if I would be successful. She simply stated that this stage of the process, having an interview, was now complete. My dossier would be sent to the prefecture at Chartres. I would be called up for a visit by the Gendarmerie at Chartres where I would be interviewed again. Then the dossier would be sent to Nantes and there would be a long wait; I probably wouldn't hear anything this year. I would know sometime in 2017.

It wasn't the last I heard from her. During the interview I had asked her why Marianne? Why was she, a female, the symbol of the French Republique? Was it because république and liberté are feminine nouns? She didn't know and rummaged through some papers. Then she asked me for my email address, which surprised me greatly. I said not to worry, I could probably find it on the internet, but she insisted. Three hours after the interview I found a message from her in my inbox. I was right, she said, and had copy/pasted a text confirming it. JC felt this was a postive sign that she thought I was worth making a personal effort for. Maybe he's right but the final decision isn't hers. Another stage completed. I await contact from the gendarmes.

For all of those of you interested or actually awaiting such an interview I hope this account helps. Expect to be nervous but hang in there, speak from the heart and you'll know you've done your best. And, read the Livret as a precaution.

How to become French - Part 1.5

I've been waiting and wondering for four months. What's happened to my application for naturalisation? I think about it every day, and today JC came in from the letterbox with an official envelope from the prefecture of Indre-et-Loire (Tours). Inside was a letter confirming my application and instructions on how to go online and request an interview.                           Yay, I now have a dossier number. Also included was a copy of the Livret du Citroyen, a handbook on the rights, responsibilities of citizens and possible subject areas I could be tested on at the interview. Many people have indicated it's a grilling or interrogation to test your determination to become French and your command of the French language as well as whether you are of the 'right stuff' to be considered a French citizen.

I shall be studying this book before JC starts testing me on the contents. It's one thing to swot up something but another to do it all in a foreign language, hence the nerves everyone suffers from (except those who are bilingual, which I will never be). Technically I have more than enough competence in French to be accepted but... it has to be tested in person under stress and will include questions of a personal nature designed perhaps to throw me off my guard - well, I've heard that.

My knowledge of French history should be fine as I seem to know more than my French students and I understand the three principles of the Republic but there's plenty else they can ask that isn't in the book though the book is well presented and interesting. I shall spend this weekend swotting the book and then sometime next week I have to go and request yet more documents (especially relating to payment of all taxes over the years) to take to the interview. What I have already supplied is now considered out of date. At the same time I will organise the date of the interview. Maybe I will have to go to Tours which is nowhere near where I live but rather in the heart of the region full of historic chateaux. We'll see.

Next step: get the interview appointment. In the meantime I continue to keep my university students on task and JC is occupied having the tree stump dug out while he collects and then slices with his chainsaw, the branches of the tree he had felled recently.  

I'm very impatiently awaiting Spring and the re-creation of my potager. Each time I tuck into a jar of my delicious home-made beetroot relish I'm reminded of the organic bounty a well-composted French potager can provide. If only they wanted to talk about gardening at the interview...

French Army Museum - Les Invalides - Paris

Founded by Louis XIV in 1670 to house wounded and retired war veterans, it houses an astonishing collection of military items.

With such a rich history in the middle of Europe it's not too surprising that France has such an extraordinary collection of war history yet it's only a quarter of what there was before the revolution. So many precious items were stolen, sold or dispersed, destroyed at that time. However the collection of 500,000 arms, suits of armour, artillery pieces, decorations, emblems, uniforms, paintings and photographs is pretty impressive. Covering more than 900 years it's amazing to see how technology evolved; some of the ancient weapons are surprising in their mechanical complexity.

The arquebus, the cannon, the pistol, the rifle, the sabre and the epee, the elegant and deadly swords. Seige weapons and modern warfare also feature. It's an extensive display in a beautiful building. I also visited one of their temporary exhibitions Knights and Bombards there. It was well done and I especially liked the thought that had gone into preparing little worksheets for children to make information scavenger hunts throughout, in English too. I enjoyed seeing the illustrated books and even real treaties from renaissance times. The battle of Agincourt in 1415 featured strongly, even if it was a disaster for the French, as it marked a change in military technology and strategy.
This temporary exhibition also features the Hundred Years war and the Italian campaigns of the kings of France including campaigns where Cesare Borgia fought on the side of the French against certain brutal Italian state rulers. Francis 1 features, of course. I got a closeup look at his suit of armour so intricately put together for him. There were excellent multimedia presentations on how a knight or ruler was dressed in his armour; the process and the equipment.

I didn't get to finish viewing the display as we were suddenly and hurriedly told to leave the building. An unattended suitcase had been seen in that wing and no doubt they were worried about terror attacks. It was really annoying to miss the rest of that exhibition though later I noticed people had been allowed back in. Too late for us to go back and see it before closing time.

The gold-domed chapel is where Napoleon's tomb is located. Well it's reputed to be him but who really says for sure. No one is prepared to do a DNA test and/or release the findings. He's enclosed within 5 separate coffins of various materials - rather like a pharoah. In fact this building consists of two churches and includes several sarcophagi.

 The two World Wars of the twentieth century featured information well-known but the artifacts and uniforms were still interesting. French colonisation made a hug impact and you can see the uniforms, and military hardware resulting from policies and struggles, especially in Algeria. It's pretty shameful but that's colonisation, isn't it.

You can't make a lightening visit to this museum. We underestimated it's scope and didn't really see everything available. There's a shop catering for all budgets with both tacky souvenirs and hand-crafted replicas. Many visitors were walking around wearing cardboard copies of Napoleon I's hat. Look for his imposing statue overlooking the honour courtyard filled with cannons from various battles. I couldn't resist taking a photo of his feet surrounded by cannonballs. 

The millions of men he killed as a result of his campaigns, ego and the rest. Sobering.

I hate war and killing machines but I still found the workmanship of the exhibits admirable, particularly the items from the middle ages and reformation. There are literally rooms and rooms of armour.

Open most days the museum features the following major sections:
Artillery in the cours d'honneur,
The dome church/ tomb of Napoleon I,
Antique arms and armour from the middle ages to 1643,
From Louis XIV to Napoleon III from 1643-1871,
The two World Wars from 1781-1945,
Charles de Gaulle Historical
Temporary exhibitions

Pay a little extra and get a Multimedia guide. It's much better than an audioguide. It's like a large smartphone or small tablet and gives you audio information of what you are looking at but also a visual commentary. This provides a rich experience, like having a personal historical guide; a great use of current technology. If you can't get hold of one at the usual entrance go to the other end of the site and ask at the shop. They tend to be more helpful.
www.musee-armee.fr

A meeting with The Little Prince

I travelled to Espace Richaud, at Versailles, to see an exhibition on one of the world's best-loved children's books. The Little Prince (Le Petit Prince) is a book for children written for grown-ups, written by author and aviator Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. It can be read on many different levels for readers of all ages and makes comment on the human spirit.

The exhibition centre, located on Boulevard de la Reine, was once an ancient hospital from the seventeenth century. It has been beautifully renovated, with most of the wings sold off as private apartments. Inside, the exhibition was tastefully presented on several levels with a small shop were one could buy memorabilia, mostly for children. I got a mug and a hardcopy edition of the book. Outside the venue you notice one of the utility boxes, scattered around central Versailles, tastefully portraying the fables of La Fontaine.

The book has become a global marketing phenomenon, with roadshows in other countries, films, records and CDs, comics. A shop dedicated to the book is now open in Paris 57 Boulevard Arago, 75013 Paris.  There's also an online store which will handle international sales. Go to http://www.thelittleprince.com  Comics have been created about the story and one touching one features the author talking to le Petit Prince as he, the author, dies in his plane wreck on the bottom of the Mediterranean.


The book's story goes like this..

The author, an aviator, crashes with his aeroplane in the middle of the Sahara desert. While he is trying to repair his aeroplane, a little boy appears and asks him to draw a sheep. The author learns that The Little Prince comes from asteroid B-612 where he has left behind three volcanoes and a rose.

Before reaching Earth, he has visited other planets and met some strange people: a king, a conceited man, a drunkard, a lamplighter, a geographer.  Since arriving on Earth, he has spoken to a fox who has taught him that to know someone or something, you must « tame » them, and that makes them unique. « What is essential is invisible to the eye, says the fox. »   You'll have to read the book if you want to know how it, rather sadly, ends.

I don't remember the first time I met The Little Prince but it was decades ago, maybe at Teachers College where I was studying children's literature. This book is so famous it has been translated into more than two hundred languages.

 Its author disappeared - shot down by a German fighter pilot while on a reconnaissance mission in 1944  and mystery surrounded this for many years. In 1988, off the coast of Marseille, a fisherman picked up in his  nets an identity bracelet bearing Saint-Exupéry’s name. Then, early this century, the wreck of a P-38 Lightning was found in the Mediterranean. The serial number on the plane identified it as the one Saint-Exupéry was flying on his last mission.