Vincennes - highest keep in France

The Capetian monarchs established a hunting lodge in the forest of Vincennes, not far from Paris, in the 12th century. John II (1350-1364) initiated work on a keep nearby. This was during the Hundred Years War. His son Charles V completed it around 1370. It is 52 m high. There was a protective wall with nine towers around it and work started on a gothic masterpiece, the Chapel.

For centuries, monarchs took refuge here. Henry V of England died in the keep (donjon) in 1422 following the siege of Meaux.  Louis XIV did some sporadic building here but finally settled at Versailles in 1682. The stronghold thus lost its status as a Royal residence but from the time of the French Revolution it became a major arsenal. It was modified by Napoleon I. Then it became a state prison for a long time. Notable prisoners included Nicolas Fouquet, Voltaire and the Marquis de Sade. Mata Hari was shot there for spying.

During the battle for Paris' liberation in August 1944, Waffen-SS German soldiers arrested and executed 26 French policemen and members of the French Resistance at the Chateau. After learning that Paris had been liberated by Allied troops, the SS soldiers set off explosions at Vincennes, badly damaging parts of the fortress.

Some minimum fitness is required to climb the stairs inside the keep, to access various levels. You can visit the chatelet terrace which gives views over the whole site. Charles V's study can be viewed. He worked there a lot, assisted by two secretaries in the two adjoining turrets. Walking around the ramparts is interesting, as the King would have done the same walk during the Middle Ages. It was later covered over. We know there were painted walls but the colours and designs have been lost over time. Some ancient graffiti still remains.

Inside the keep there is the council room. It would have been used for receptions and working meetings between the king and his advisors or even as the King's bedroom if necessary. Other levels contain the bedchamber which has a nice fireplace. The King would have put his best manuscripts in a chest placed in the window recesses. Painted rafters, though damaged and faded, suggest what the exquisite interior decoration might have been. The treasure room did not, alas, contain any treasure during the visit.

We did not get to visit the chapel. It was closed for a very lengthy lunch break and we had not been warned when we arrived, so that was annoying, but though styled like La Saint Chapelle in Paris, it is not as impressive so we didn't mind so much. The relics of the Crown of Thorns were temporarily housed there while the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris was being readied to receive them.

The restoration work on the keep and walls is well done but there is still much to do.

Apartment buildings for the King and Queen need doing. The King's building is being used to house France's military archives so researchers can easily visit it. The Queen's building seems to be locked and rather destitute, awaiting significant funds, I imagine.

This site is worth a visit. I hope in future an effort will be made to re-establish gardens there as it's a rather sterile site, especially in the heat of summer.


http://www.chateau-de-vincennes.fr/en/