Valençay - Talleyrand's Legacy

Valençay is one of the grand chateaux de la Loire but it's a little off the main beaten track. You can drive there pretty directly from Blois and it is worth a visit, especially if you are staying in the chateaux region as it is somewhat different to the others. Yes it is grand, the interior is rather too 'original' but even that is interesting; to see the original furnishings of this property owned at one time by Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord who was, at that time, Napoleon's foreign minister, with a few small renovations since.

Talleyrand 1754 – 1838 was one of France's most gifted statesmen and ministers.
His extraordinary career spanned the eras of Louis XVI, the French Revolution and then the Directorate, Napoleon 1, Louis XVIII, King Louis-Philippe. It's an extraordinary story detailed here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Maurice_de_Talleyrand-P%C3%A9rigord

He was cunning enough to survive changing political fortunes and was often criticised for turning his coat for personal advancement but nevertheless, he was involved in many important treaties and events and didn't always agree with the head of government who employed him.

Talleyrand bought the run-down estate in 1803. In 1808 Napoleon obliged him to host the King and princes of the Spanish royal family who had been deposed in favour of Napoleon's brother Joseph. They were in this gilded cage for almost six years and in order to entertain them from time to time a little theatre was built. This survives today though it needs a lot of work.

The chateau itself dates from 1520 though a manor had existed on the site in the Middle Ages. It has grown and developed through the centuries. Valençay overlooks the Nahon River and is surrounded by significant grounds.

The East wing was demolished in the 18th century, leaving a large courtyard opening to what was no doubt a lovely garden and terrace in the past. I understand there are plans to resurrect fountains and the gardens but that all takes time and a lot more visitors, of course. The gardens, when I saw them, were suffering from a severe drought affecting most of France but the 'bones' are good and no doubt kinder weather will see plantings bounce back.

From the terraced garden you can see a vinyard next door, as well as mini chateaux and woods, so it would have been an agreeable place to live away from the hustle and bustle of Paris.

Mostly the chateau interiors are in a dilapidated state through lack of funds. The chateau suffers through not being on the grand tour of the most well-known Loire chateaux, due to its location, and this is a shame. It's interesting to see the decors and furniture and the many interesting objects of daily life contained in the rooms. The exterior is well maintained, as you can see, and the little shop is stocked with lots of tempting things to buy. Buy a copy of the book Talleyrand and his Chateau de Valençay - it's chock full of amazing details on construction, owners, politics and the beautiful objects on display. The exiled King of Spain's bedroom is as it was, in gold colourings.

I had the great good fortune to meet Frédéric who runs the shop and is also their communications manager. He kindly gave us written information and a personal tour of the little theatre located just a few metres from the chateau entrance.

The stage set itself has been completely and lovingly restored. The lighting has been recycled from the original stage lights from Marie-Antoinette's theatre at Versailles, following the restoration of the latter theatre. The rest of this theatre needs a lot of cleaning, tidying and restoring. It is not in a state for much public viewing. The seating needs to be changed in order to give a better ambiance. It was great to have the opportunity to go backstage and look out on the auditorium much as it would have been in the past. It's a lovely, intimate place that I hope gets the funds it deserves.

As you might expect, there is a lot of empire-style furniture. Talleyrand's imposing desk dominates his study. I was particularly taken with the document chair in its original leather with document pocket.










Talleyrand had a club foot and wore an orthotic boot. Some referred to him as the 'limping devil'. In his later years he was wheeled around his garden in a wheelchair, still preserved today.
A number of his official robes are on display. I very much appreciated the wonderful work on the document cases and covers in this 'museum'.

The kitchens came as a pleasant surprise. They are spacious and in good order, better than most chateaux kitchens. The facilities are excellent and give a detailed look at what was typical equipment through the ages.

It's a problem for chateaux when the owner dies without direct descendents. This was the case for Valençay in the 19th and 20th centuries. It has lost a lot of its original furniture and is now owned by an association. 

The town of Valençay, which is right next to the chateau, still retains some charm but like most rural towns, is struggling to attract commerce and inhabitants. Still, a pleasant lunch can be had there at a choice of restaurants and cafes.

Château de Valençay
2 Rue de Blois, 36600 Valençay
02 54 00 10 66
accueil@chateau-valencay.fr